Weebee_SE_Nelly_Doll_Revised_April_2017

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Weebee Special Edition
‘Nelly ’ Doll
© 2017, t ext and images by Lau ra Tegg, all rights reserved.
Finished products create d with this pattern may be used for commercial sale.
Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg when finished products are listed for sale.













When I mak e Nelly using Light Worsted/3/DK/8ply weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook, she stands at
10.5 inches tall. Made from the toes to the top of the head in one go! Only Nelly’s arms need
sewing on! Other yarn weights and hooks can of course be used to create smaller or larger
dolls!
You can find my all of my doll patterns plus lots of clothing patterns for many of them here:
http://www.ravelr y.com/designers/laura -tegg
Now you can also join our Facebook page dedicated to my Weebee dolls – where I like to post
sneak peaks of new patterns and host the odd Mystery Crochet Along ( CAL ) or two! Everyone
welcome! https://www.facebook.com/groups/1590618731240406/
Every effort has been made to ensure that this pattern is error free but I have very little time to
spare (I have a four year old, lol!) so i f you find any errors whatsoever in this pattern please do not
hesitate to contact me and I will amend as soon as possible…
Facebook https://www.facebook.com/Lollys -Crafty -Crochet -107955012662245/
Ravelry http://www.ravelry.com/people/laurategg

Terminology: US Abbreviations
Chain (ch)
Double Crochet (dc)
Loo p (lp)
Magic ring (MR)
Next (nxt)
Round (rnd)
Single Crochet (sc)
Abbreviations Cont/d…
Single Crochet Back Loop Only
(scblo)
Space (sp)
Skip (skp)
Stitch (st)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Yarn Over (yo)
Other items needed:
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
Stuffi ng
Pair of 12mm safety eyes
Useful info for those who crochet left handed
Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if you are left
handed https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=554&type_id=T
Special Stitches – Please READ THIS
This type of decrease MUST be used throughout the pattern
to avoid any unsightly bumps in your work !
Inv isible single crochet decrease
Sc2tog: Insert hook in front loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 lps on
hook), yo and draw through 2 lps , yo and complete sc as normal.
Link to Youtube video (useful from 1min 48 in): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HWGl0Ah -Y0
4dc Bobble: Yo, insert hook into next st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops on
the hook - two loops remain on the hook - *yo, insert hook into same st and draw up another loop,
yo insert hook into next st and pull through first two loops - three loops remain on h ook*, repeat
fro m * to * until 5 loops re main on hook, yo and pull through all loops on hook, yo again and pull
through to close the stitch.
Twisted Single Crochet (tw sc)
Stitches are worked from the right to the left. Insert hook into st, yo, pull through a loop (2 loops on
hook, make them loos e), rotate the hook towards yourself and around 360 degrees, yo and draw
through two loops on hook. Here’s a link to a video which shows how to do it:
http://www.gosyo.co.jp/siteimage/kagi_ami/32/32_kagi.wmv . If this link does not work there are
videos on Youtube. This st is very similar to the crab st, so if you find it difficult to work, you can
substitute it with the crab st.
Pattern Start
Feet, Legs & start of optional underwear – make 2
Crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from
the foot up. You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where
the beginning of each round starts; move the marker up to the
first stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one.
Rnd 1: MR, work 6sc (6sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in first st, 2sc in second st, *s c in next st , 2sc in next
st, repeat from * around (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in the back loop of each st around (18 sts)
Rnds 5 -7: Sc in each st around (18 sts)

Rnd 8 : Sc in each of the first 6 sts , sc2tog x 3 , sc in each of the remaining 6 sts (15 sts) (Please
see Special Stitches as all sc2tog’s within this pattern should be worked as invisible decreases).
Rnd 9: Sc in each of the first 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of the remaining 7 sts (14 sts)
Stuff the feet firmly and the legs lighter and lighter
towards the top as you work (as shown).
Rnd 10 -20 : Sc in each st around (14 sts)
If working underwear onto the doll, fasten off skin
tone yarn now and at tach different coloured yarn .
Rnd 21 & 22: Sc in each st around (14sts)


Fasten off first leg (leaving a long tail) but not on second – you
sho uld be at the right hand side of both leg s (as shown) when looking
at them from the back , continue on to the…





Body
Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, using a
stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 23 : Work 7 sc (as shown) …
… then take other leg and place it next to the
first so that both feet are facing the same way,
then sc into the first st on the last round of the
other leg, continue to work 13 further sts
around this leg …
… then sc into the
remaining 7 sts
around the other
leg ( 28 sts)







Rnd 24 : Sc in each st around (28 sts)
Rnd 25 : *Sc in each of the next 5sts , sc2tog , repeat from * around (24 sts)

There will be a small hole between the legs and we will sew this up
shortly…
Stuff the body firmly as you go.
Rnd s 26: Sc in each st around (24 sts)
Change yarn colour back to skin tone …
After wo rking a few rounds of the body (rnds 27 -38 below) …
… take the long tai l you left on the first leg and using a
darning needle pass it thro ugh to one side of the body
and …
...then use it to sew up the
round at the top of the legs
from one side of the body to
the other, closing up the
small hole between the legs
as you do so.

This helps to create the bend in the legs for si tting and stops the stuffing in
the body from falling into the legs.

27 - 38 : Sc in each st around (24 sts)
Rnd 39 : *Sc in each of the next 4 sts , sc2tog, repeat from * around (20 sts)
Rnd 40 : *Sc in each of the next 3 sts , sc2tog, repeat from * around (16 sts)
Rnds 41 & 42 : Sc in each st around (16 sts)
HEAD
Rnd 43: *Sc in each of the next 7sts, 2sc in the
next st, repeat from * once more (18 sts)
Rnd 44: *Sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2sc in th e
next st, repeat from * around (24 sts)
Rnd 45: * Sc in each of the next 3sts, 2sc in the
next st, repeat from * around (30 sts)
Rnd 46: *Sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2sc in n ext
st, repeat from * around (36 sts)
Rnd 47: *Sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2sc in ne xt
st, repeat from * around (42 sts)
Rnd 48: *Sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2sc in ne xt s t, repeat from * around (48 sts)
Rnds 49 - 51: Sc in each st around (48sts)

Rnd 52: Ears - if for any reason you’re not happy with their placement , you can simply add the
bobble stitches where you would like them to be – it might be that because we ’re using different
yarns or have different gauges etc that the amount of stitches you make between each ear needs
to be different to mine but here ’s what I did - sc in each of the first 11 sts, 4dc bobble in next st, sc
in each of the next 24 sts, 4 dc bo bble in nex t st, sc in each of the remaining 11 sts (48 sts
including 2 bobble sts)
Mark two stitches, 8 stit ches apart for safety eyes between
rounds 51 & 52 .
Rnd s 53 – 60: Sc in each st around (48sts)
Rnd 61: * Sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, repeat from *
around (42sts)
Place safety eyes on marked round, 8 stitches apart .
Stuff firmly as you go, before the opening gets too small. Push
stuffing f rom the head down into the neck to ensure your doll is
firmly stuffed throughout.
Rnd 62: * Sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (36sts)
Rnd 63: * Sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (30sts)
Rnd 64: * Sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 65: * Sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (18sts)
Rnd 66: * Sc in next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around (12sts)
Rnd 67: Sc2tog around (6sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail, weave yarn through the front loops of the remaining stitches with a
darning needle and pull to close the hole and hide any loose ends.
Add a nose!
Take a length of skin tone yarn and sew it several times loosely
over a couple of stitches just below the eyes as shown here .
Colour those cheeks!
To add colour to your dolls cheeks, you can use ordinary blusher
and a blusher brush, sweep it beneath the eye at an angle up
towards the hair line .
Hands and Arms – make 2
Crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds from
hand to shoulder. Use a stitch marker to keep track of where the
beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 1: MR, work 6sc (6sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd s 3 & 4 : Sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 5 : 4dc bobble in the first st (makes thumb), sc in each of the
remaining 11 sts (12 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 7: * Sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around
(10sts)

Stuff hand firmly and the arm lighter and lighter t owards the top, there should be almost no stuffing
at the top – this makes the arm sit at the side of the body and makes the doll easier to dress.
Rnd 8: * Sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (8sts)
Rnd s 9 - 18 : Sc in each st around (8 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail, weave yarn through the front loops of the remaining stitches with a
darning needle and pull to close the hole and hide any loose ends.
Sew arm into place 2 round s beneath the neck (round 41) - I have a video showing how I sew on
the arms onto my dolls on the Weebee and Friends YouTube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyjj_f1a1OM
Basic Hair Cap
Please read advice on hair caps on next page before starting…
Rnd 1: MR, ch 2 (not a st from now on) work 11 dc, join last st to top of
first with a sl st (11 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch2, 2dc in same st, then work 2dc in each st around, join last st
to top of first with a sl st (22 sts )
Rnd 3: Ch2, dc in same st, 2dc in next st, *dc in next st , 2dc in next st repeat from * around, join
last st to top of first with a sl st (33 sts )
Rnd 4: Ch2 , dc in each of first two sts, 2dc next st, *dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st , repeat
from * around, join last st to top of first with a sl st (44 sts )
Rnds 5 – 7 (or until cap sits one round (sc depth ) above the ears) : Ch2, dc in each st around ,
join last st to top of first with a sl st (44 sts )
Rnd 8: Ch2, dc in each of the first 7 sts, sc in each of the next 5 sts (goes over ear), dc in each of
the next 2 0 sts, sc in each of the next 5 sts (for other ear), dc in each of the remaining 7 sts (44sts)
Fasten off leaving a long tail to make the gather and sew cap to dolls head.
Using a darning needle use tail to weave in and out up the join 4 rounds, pull to gather, then use
the needle wrap the yarn around the gather several times until you are happy with how it looks,
sew cap to head using a whip st in desired way and then hide any loose ends.
I have a video showing how to gather a cap for the parting here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8emU9544Xw
Advice for hair caps…
Help! My hair cap is too small!
If you find that the cap is too snug, you can pull back your work to round 4 (44sts) and work an
extra increase round to increase the cap by 10 stitches. So round 5 would be Ch1 , dc in each of
the first three sts, *2dc in next st, dc in each of the next three sts, repeat from * aroun d, ending
with 2dc in last st, join (55sts ). Then you would just adjust the amount of straight rounds
accordingly (rounds 5 -7 as written) until the cap fits one dc round above the ears, then work round
8 as written. Alternatively you can try working the c ap in a bigger hook size.
Help! My hair cap is too big!
If you find that the cap is a bit too roomy, you can pull back your work to round 3 (33sts) and
repeat the straight rounds from there as necessary to reduce the cap by 10 stitches, you will of
course need to adjust the last round which shapes around the ears as appropriate. Alternatively
you can try reworking the cap in a smaller hook size.

Pigtails – make 2
*Ch13, work 2hdc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end,
repeat from * twice more.
Sew pigtails on to each side of the head, low down so that the doll
can wear hats if you so c hoose. These are the same curls I make for
the My First Weebee CAL so if you have any difficulties understanding
them, please see this video (useful from 12 minutes 45 seconds in)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lh -CSY89M9g&t=421s
Dress & Shoes
Important things to consider before you begin…
I have tried very hard to make all of my clothing patterns as versatile as possible. In theory as
long as you use the same type of yarn e.g. acrylic, cotton etc., the same brand of yarn, the same
weight of yarn and the same hook size, the clothing should fit your dolls.
However , some people have commented that they have a tendency to stuff their dolls very, very
firmly (one person said ‘like a brick’) and a lot of people use cotton yarn too which doesn’t have
much give. If this is you, you may not be able to manipulate your dolls into the clothing as easily
as I can, as although I stuff my dolls firmly I don’t stuff them so firmly that I cannot pull an d/or push
them into the clothing with ease. I also use acrylic yarn for my dolls and their clothing which has a
lot of stretch to it.
Therefore If you tend to stuff your dolls very firmly, so that that the dolls body has very little give or
use cotton yar n, it is highly recommended that you go up at least one hook size when making the
clothing within this pattern .
I have noted in the individual patterns when there is a good point at which to try the pieces on
before you work any further, so that you can re work what you have done so far with a different
sized hook if you need to.
Dress
Ch17 – not too tightly, ch should fit around doll ’s neck, if not
go up in hook size until it does.
Row 1: Sc into back bump (see Special Techniques) of 2 nd
ch from hook and into each back bump across, turn or
optional ch5 (forms a loop for button) turn and sl st back
into last st (16sts & a ch5 button loop )
Row 2: Ch1 (not a st from now on), work 2hdc into each st
across, turn (32sts)
Row 3: Ch1, *sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2sc in next st,
repeat from * across, turn (36sts)
Row 4: Ch1, hdc in each of next 5sts, ch5 , skp 8sts, hd c in each of next 10sts, ch5 , skp 8sts, hd c
in each of remai ning 5sts, turn (20sts and 2 ch5 sps)
Row 5: Ch1, sc in each of first 5 sts, sc in each ch, sc in each of next 10 sts, sc in each ch, sc in
remaining 5 sts, turn (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch1, hdc in each st across, join last st to first with a sl st (30sts)

Now is a good time to try the dress onto your doll to check the fit , if it’s too tight, simply re
work the yoke in a lar ger hook size before continuing…
Round 7: Ch1, hdc in first st, 2hdc in next st, * hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st, repeat from * around,
join last st to first with a sl st (45sts)
Rounds 8 -15 (or to desired length): Ch1, hdc in each st around, joining last st to first with a sl st
(45sts)
Optional Hem Trim - change yarn to a contrasting colour ch1
and work tw sc (see special stitches ) in each st around
(45sts)
Alternatively just s l st loosely around to neaten the edge or
faste n off if you find it hard to sl st loosely.
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
Attach button opposite ch loop in round one if you chose to
add one.


Right Sleeve Edging
Attach yarn to back right sleeve opening.
Work a tw sc (see special stitches ) into each of the unworked
sts across the top of the arm hole , do not work all the way
around. Before you fasten off, sl st back into the bottom of
the last st, then fasten off and hide loose ends.
Left Sleeve Edging
Attach yarn to front left sleeve opening.
Work a tw sc into each of the unworked sts across the top of
the arm ho le, do not work all the way around. Before you
fasten off, sl st back into the bottom of the last st, then fasten
off and hide loose ends.
Nelly ’s Mary Jane Shoes
Nelly ’s shoes are worked in joined rounds. At the end of
each round join the last st to the first with a sl st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (n ot a st itch from now on), work 5 hdc, join
(as above) (5 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1 , work 2hdc in each st around, join (10 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1 , work 2hdc in each st around, join (20 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1 , hdc into the back loop only of each st around, join (20 sts)
Rnds 5: Ch1 , hdc into each st around, join (20 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch1 , hd c into each of the first 7sts , hd c2tog x 3 , hd c into each of the remaining 7sts , join
(17 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch1, sc in each of the first 6sts , sl st LOOSELY in each of the next 5sts , sc in each of the
remaining 6sts , join (17 sts)

Rnd 8: Sl st LOOSLEY in each of the first 5sts , ch8 not too tightly , skp 7 sts, sl st LOOSELY in
each o f the remaining 5sts.
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
~•~
More clothing patterns coming for Nelly coming soon!
~•~
I hope you have enjoyed completing this patter n! Be sure to share your Weebee Nelly doll’ s with
us on the Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook Page (link on first page)
and to add your project to Ravelry!
~•~
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