Weebee_Special_Edition_Nelly_Doll

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Weebee Special Edition
‘Nelly ’ Doll
© Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved.
Finished products create d with this pattern may be used for commercial sale.
Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg when finished products are listed for sale.







When I mak e Nelly using Light Worsted/3/DK/8ply weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook, she stands at
10.5 inches tall. Made from the toes to the top of the head in one go! Only Nelly’s arms need
sewing on! Other yarn weights and hooks can of course be used to create smaller or larger
dolls!
You can find my all of my doll patterns plus lots of clothing patterns for many of them here:
http://www.ravelr y.com/designers/laura -tegg
Now you can also join our Facebook page dedicated to my Weebee dolls – where I like to post
sneak peaks of new patterns and host the odd Mystery Crochet Along ( CAL ) or two! Everyone
welcome! https://www.facebook.com/groups/1590618731240406/
Every effort has been made to ensure that this pattern is error free but I have very little time to
spare (I have a four year old, lol!) so if you find any errors whatsoever in this pattern please do not
hesitate to contact me and I will amend as soon as possible…
Facebook https://www.facebook.com/Lollys -Crafty -Cro chet -107955012662245/
Ravelry http://www.ravelry.com/people/laurategg

Terminology: US Abbreviations
Chain (ch)
Double Crochet (dc)
Loo p (lp)
Magic ring (MR)
Next (nxt)
Round (rnd)
Single Crochet (sc)
Abbreviations Cont/d…
Single Crochet Back Loop Only
(scblo)
Space (sp)
Skip (skp)
Stitch (st)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Yarn Over (yo)
Other items needed:
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
Stuffing
Pair of 12mm safety eyes

Useful info for those who crochet left handed
Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if you are left
handed https://www.anniescatalog.c om/crochet/content.html?content_id=554&type_id=T

Special Stitches – Please READ THIS

This type of decrease MUST be used throughout the pattern
to avoid any unsightly bumps in your work !
Inv isible single crochet decrease
Sc2tog: Insert hook in front loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 lps on
hook), yo and draw through 2 lps , yo and complete sc as normal.
Link to Youtube video (useful from 1min 48 in): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8HWGl0Ah -Y0

Bobble: Yo, insert hook into next st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops on the
hook - two loops remain on the hook - *yo, insert hook into same st and draw up another loop, yo
insert hook into next st and pull through first two loops - three loops remain on h ook*, repeat from *
to * until 7 loops remain on hook, yo and pull through all loops on hook, yo again and pull through
to close the stitch.
Twisted Single Crochet (tw sc)
Stitches are worked from the right to the left. Insert hook into st, yo, pull through a loop (2 loops on
hook, make them loose), rotate the hook towards yourself and around 360 degrees, yo and draw
through two loops on hook. Here’s a link to a video which s hows how to do it:
http://www.gosyo.co.jp/siteimage/kagi_ami/32/32_kagi.wmv . If this link does not work there are
videos on Youtube. This st is very similar to the crab st, so if you find it difficult to work, you can
substitute it with the crab st.
Patt ern Start
Legs – make 2
Legs are crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the
rounds from the foot up. You will need a stitch marker to
keep track of where the beginning of each round starts;
move the marker up to the first stitch of the next round after
finishing the previous one.
Rnd 1: MR, work 6sc (6sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in first st, 2sc in second st, *s c in next st , 2sc in
next st, repeat from * around (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc in each of the first 2 sts, 2sc in nex t st, *sc in each of the next 2 sts , 2sc in the next st ,
repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in the back loop of each st around (24sts)
Rnds 6 -8: Sc in each st around (24sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in each of the first 6 sts , sc2tog x 6, sc in each of the remaining 6 sts (18 sts) (Please
see Special Stitches as all sc2tog’s within this pattern should be worked as invisible decreases).
Rnd 10: Sc in each of the first 5 sts, sc2tog x 4, sc in each of the remaining 5sts (14 sts)
Stuff the feet firmly .
Rnd 11 -22 : Sc in each st around (14 sts)
Fasten off first leg (leaving a long tail) but not on second – you sho uld be at the right hand
side of the leg when looking at it from the back , continue on to the…
Body
Continue to crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep
track of where the beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 23 : Work 7 sc then take other leg and place it next to the first so that both feet are facing the
same way, then sc into the first st on the last round of the other leg, continue to work 13 further sts
around this leg and then the remaining 7 sts around the other leg ( 28 sts)
Stuff the feet firmly and the legs getting lighter towards the top (there should be only a very small
amount at the top ).
Rnd 24 : Sc in each st around (28 sts)
Rnd 25 : *Sc in each of the next 5sts , sc2tog , repeat from * around (24 sts)
There will be a small hole between the legs and we will sew this up shortly…



After working a few rounds of the body, ta ke the long tail you
left on the first leg and using a darning needle pass it through
to one side of the body and then use it to sew across the
ro und at the top of the legs from one side to the other,
closing up the hole between the legs as you do so.




Stuff the body firmly as you go.
Rnd s 26 - 38 : sc in each st around (24 sts)
Rnd 39 : *Sc in each of the next 4 sts , sc2tog, repeat from * around (20 sts)
Rnd 40 : *Sc in each of the next 3 sts , sc2tog, repeat from * around (16 sts)
Rnds 41 & 42 : Sc in each st around (16 sts)

HEAD
Nelly ’s head is shaped to give her a more human appearance - so
there are more increases at th e fron t than the back , there are also
ears worked onto the head as you go …
Rnd 43: 2sc in each of the first 2 sts, sc in each of the next 12sts,
2sc in each of the last 2 sts (20sts)
Rnd 44: 2sc in each of the first 5 sts, sc in each of the next 10sts,
2sc in each of the last 5 sts (3 0sts)
Rnd 45: * Sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from *
around (36sts)
Rnd 46: *Sc in each of the next 5 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * aro und (42sts)
Rnd 47: *Sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2sc in ne *xt st, repeat from * around (48sts)
Rnd 48 – 51: Sc in each st around (48sts)
Rnd 52: Ears (should be on the side of the head, if you ’re not happy with their placement
for any reason, you can simply add the bobble stitche s where you would like them to be )
Sc in each of the first 11 sts, 4dc bobble in next st, sc in each of the next 24 sts, 4 dc bobble in
next st, sc in each of the remaining 11 sts (48 sts including 2 bobble sts)
Mark two stitches, 8 stit ches apart for safety eyes between rounds 51 & 52 .
Rnd s 53 – 60: Sc in each st around (48sts)
Rnd 61: * Sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (42sts)
Place safety eyes on marked round, 8 stitches apart .
Stuff firmly as you go, before the opening gets too small. Push stuffing f rom the head down into
the neck to ensure your doll is firmly stuffed throughout.
Rnd 62: * Sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (36sts)
Rnd 63: * Sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (30sts)
Rnd 64: * Sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (24sts)
Rnd 65: * Sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (18sts)
Rnd 66: * Sc in next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around (12sts)
Rnd 67: Sc2tog around (6sts)
Faste n off, leaving a tail, weave yarn through the front loops of the remaining stitches with a
darning needle and pull to close the hole and hide any loose ends.
Add a nose!
Take a length of skin tone yarn and sew it several times loosely
over a couple of stitches just below the e yes as shown here.

Hands and Arms – make 2
Crocheted in continuous spirals without joining the rounds
from hand to shoulder. Use a stitch marker to keep track of
where the beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 1: MR, work 6sc (6sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd s 3 & 4 : Sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 5 : 4dc bobble in the first st (makes thumb), sc in each
of the remaining 11 sts (12 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc in each st around (12 sts)
Rnd 7: * Sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog, repeat from *
around (10sts)
Stuff hand firmly, leave the rest of the arm unstuffed.
Rnd 8: * Sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog, repeat from *
around (8sts)
Rnd s 9 - 18 : Sc in each st around (8 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a tail, weave yarn through the fron t
loops of the remaining stitches with a darning needle and
pull to close the hole and hide any loose ends.
Sew arm into place 2 round s beneath the neck - I have a
video showing how I sew on the arms on to my dolls on the
Weebee and Friends YouTube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f yjj_f1a1OM
Basic Hair Cap
Pleas e read advice on hair caps on next pag e before
starting …
Rnd 1: MR, ch 2 (not a st from now on) work 11 dc, join last
st to top of first with a sl st (11 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch2, 2dc in same st, then work 2dc in each st
around, join last st to top of first with a sl st (22 sts )
Rnd 3: Ch2, dc in same st, 2dc in next st, *dc in next st ,
2dc in next st repeat from * around, join last st to top of first
with a sl st (33 sts )
Rnd 4: Ch2 , dc in each of first two sts, 2dc next st, *dc in
each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st , repeat from * around, join
last st to top of first with a sl st (44 sts )
Rnds 5 – 7 (or until cap s its one round above the ears) :
Ch2, dc in each st around , join last st to top of first with a sl
st (44 sts )
Rnd 8: Ch2, dc in each of the first 7 sts, sc in each of the
next 5 sts (goes over ear), dc in each of the next 2 0 sts, sc
in each of the next 5 sts (for other ear), dc in each of the
remaining 7 sts (44sts)
Fasten off leaving a long tail to make the gather and sew
cap to dolls head.

Using a darning needle use tail to weave in and out up the join 4
rounds, pull to gather, then use the needle wrap the yarn around the
gather several times until you are happy with how it looks, sew cap to
head using a whip st in desired way and then hide any loose ends.
I have a video showing how to gather a cap for the parting here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8emU9544Xw
Advice for hair caps…
Help! My hair cap is too small!
If you find that the cap is too snug, you ca n pull back your work to
round 4 (44 sts) and work an extra increase round to increase th e cap by 10 stitches. So round 5
would be Ch1 , dc in each of the first three sts, *2 dc in ne xt st, dc in each of the next three sts,
repe at from * around , ending with 2 dc in last st, join (55 sts ). Then you would just adjust the
amount of straight rounds accordingly (rounds 5 -7 as written) until the cap fits one dc round above
the ears, then work round 8 as written. Alternatively you can try working the cap in a bigger hook
size.
Help! My hair cap is too big!
If you find that the cap is a bit too roomy, you ca n pull back your work to round 3 (33 sts) and
repeat the straight roun ds from there as necessary to reduce the cap by 10 stitch es , you will of
course need to adjust the last round wh ich shapes around the ears as appropriate. Alternatively
you can try reworking the cap in a smaller hook size.

Pigtail s – make 2
*Ch13, work 2hdc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end,
repeat from * twice more.
Sew pigtails on to each side of the head, low down so that the doll can
wear hats if you so choose.
These are the same curls I make for the My First Weebee CAL so if
you have any difficulties understandin g them, please see this video
(useful from 12 minutes 45 seconds in)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lh -CSY89M9g&t=421s
Dress Pattern
Important Information before you begin …
I have tried very hard to make all of my clothing patterns as versatile as possible. In theory as long as
you use the same type of yarn e.g. acrylic, cotton etc., the same brand of yarn, the same weight of
yarn and the same hook size, the clothing should fit your dolls.
However , some people have commented that t hey have a tendency to stuff their dolls very, very
firmly (one person said ‘like a brick’) and a lot of people use cotton yarn too which doesn’t have much
give. If this is you, you may not be able to manipulate your dolls into the clothing as easily as I can, as
although I stuff my dolls firmly I don’t stuff them so firmly that I cannot pull and/or push them into the
clothing with ease. I also use acrylic yarn for my dolls and their clothing which has a lot of stretch to it.
Therefore If you tend to stuf f your dolls very firmly, so that that the dolls body has very little give or use
cotton yarn, it is highly recommended that you go up at least one hook size when making the clothing
within this pattern .

I have noted in the individual patterns when there is a good point at which to try the pieces on before
you work any further, so that you can rework what you have done so far with a different sized hook if
you need to.
Ch17
Row 1: Sc into back bump (see Special Techniques) of
2nd ch from hook and into each back bump across, turn
or optional ch5 (forms a loop for button) turn and sl st
back into last st (16sts)
Row 2: Ch1 (not a st from now on), work 2hdc into each
st across, turn (32s ts)
Row 3: Ch1, *sc in each of the next 7 sts, 2sc in next st,
repeat from * across, turn (36sts)
Row 4: Ch1, hdc in each of next 5sts, ch5 , skp 8sts,
hd c in each of next 10sts, ch5 , skp 8sts, hd c in each of
remai ning 5sts, turn (20sts and 2 ch5 sps)
Row 5: Ch1, sc in each of first 5 sts, sc in each ch, sc in each of next 10 sts, sc in each ch, sc in
remaining 5 sts, turn (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch1, hdc in each st across, join last st to first with a sl st (30sts)
Now is a good time to try the dress onto your doll to check the fit , if it’s too tight, simply re
work the yoke in a lar ger hook size before continuing…
Round 7: Ch1, hdc in first st, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st, repeat from * around,
join last st to first with a sl st (45sts)
Rounds 8 -14 (or to desired length): Ch1, hdc in each st around, joining last st to first with a sl st
(45sts)
Sl st loosely around to neaten the edge.
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
Attach button opposite ch loop in round one if you chose to add one.
Right Sleeve Edging
Attach yarn to back right sleeve opening.
Work a tw sc into each of the unworked sts across the
top of the arm hole , do not work all the way around.
Before you fasten off, sl st back into the bottom of the
last st, then fasten off and hide loose ends.
Left Sleeve Edging
Attach yarn to front left sleeve opening.
Work a tw sc into each of the unworked sts across the
top of the arm hole, do not work all the way around.
Before you fasten off, sl st back into the bottom of the
last st, then fasten off and hide loose ends.

Shoes …
Luckily Nelly can wear the shoes, boots etc designed to fit my
sta ndard size Weebee doll! Here she is wearing a pair of Mary
Jane shoes which can be found in this free pattern …
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/weebee -doll --- mix -and -
match -clothing


More clothing patterns coming for Nelly coming soon!
I hope you have enjoyed completing this patter n!
Be sure to share your Weebee Special Edition Nelly doll ’s with us on the
Weebee Appreciation Society Facebook Page (link on first page)
and to add your project to Ravelry!
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