Instructions_Pleated_summer_dress_Pattern-1

Формат документа: pdf
Размер документа: 3.17 Мб




Прямая ссылка будет доступна
примерно через: 45 сек.



  • Сообщить о нарушении / Abuse
    Все документы на сайте взяты из открытых источников, которые размещаются пользователями. Приносим свои глубочайшие извинения, если Ваш документ был опубликован без Вашего на то согласия.

SIZES A - K | INTERMEDIATE
We’re super excited to bring you these patterns in partnership with the lovel y
people at The Fabric Store. With a passion for all things sewing, they stock an
incredible range of fabrics – think quality linen, silk, cotton, merino and even
leather – at their Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and New Zealand stores, as well
as a small selection online.
PLEATED SUMMER DRESS
Pattern made exclusivel y for Peppermint Magazine by In the Folds

contents
3

4
5
6
7
8
9
10 -25
26
Garment overview (details + suggested fabrics)
Sizing + garment measurements
Printing the pattern
Printing plan
Cutting your fabric
Suggested cutting plans
Instructions
Glossary
About In the Folds patterns

about in the folds patterns
In the Folds patterns are designed to enable
you to create beautiful and innovative garments,
as well as encourage interesting and
thought-provoking learning experiences.
Techniques maGLHUVOLJKWO to the home sew -
ing methods you are used to, but in some cases
industrial finishes will give RXWKHFOHDQHVWDQG
most professional finish.
All seam allowances are 1.2cm (½in) unless
otherwise stated.
You will notice that in some cases the seam
allowances meet each other at different angles
at the end of the seam. This is so that when you
press the seam allowances open the seams will
sit flush with the edges.
In the Folds patterns are designed to include
thoughtful details and interesting techniques
so that you can enjoy the process of making
the garment as much as the end result.
If we slow down and take in every stitch, we can
better our skills, appreciate the amazing things
we can do with our hands, understand the pro -
cess more fully and create garments that will be
worn, loved and cared for long into the future.
We'd love to see your work in progress.
Find us on Instagram @inthefolds and
@peppermintmagazine and tag your photos
with #peppermintsewingschool
Happy sewing!
Please consider the environment before
printing this instruction booklet.
Also consider using fabric from your stash
before going to buy something new. I dare you.
You might be surprised bZKDWou find there.
Before selecting your fabric, really think about
how this garment will fit into RXUZDUGUREH
and how you plan to care for it. Choose a fabric
that fits the bill.
THE ENVIRONMENT
SLOW SEWING
3

NOTIONS
• Fabric (yardage on p. 5)
• Coordinating thread
• 3 x 14mm (9/6”) / Size 22 buttons
garment overview
FRONT
GARMENT DETAILS
The Pleated Summer Dress is a relaxed and
boxy style knee-length dress, with a pleated
skirt. It features a button placket with hidden
buttons, bias bound armholes and neckline,
bust darts, in-seam pockets and a back yoke.
Through the creation of this garment you will
gain confidence in:
- sewing with woven fabrics
- sewing darts
- sewing pleats
- sewing a button placket
4
BACK
FABRIC SUGGESTIONS
It is encouraged that you use a fabric that is soft
and drapes well. Consider using light to mid-weight
fabrics such as: linen, linen blends, cotton, gauze or
chambray. You culd also consider sateen, silk (crepe
de chine or habotai), tencel or viscose (rayon). For
a boxier silhouette, consider light-weight denims or
heavy-weight cottons.
Please note:
Due to the width of the pattern pieces, 150cm
(60in) wide fabric is required for sizes H - K

5
Taking your measurements:
If your measurements fall between sizes, use the
finished measurements above to help RXVHOHFW
your size.
If your measurements range between several
sizes, print the sizes your measurements lie
between and grade between the sizes by
drawing diagonal lines from one size to another.
To learn more about printing only the size/s you
need, look to p. 6 for guidance.
The pattern is drafted for height of 170cm (5’7”).
sizing + garment measurements
A B C DE F G J
H K
BUST
HIP 76cm
30” 81cm
32” 86cm
34” 91cm
36” 96cm
38” 101cm
40” 108.5cm
43” 116cm
45½” 123.5cm
48½”
84cm 33” 89cm
35” 94cm
37” 99cm
39” 104cm
41” 109cm
43” 116.5cm
46” 124cm
49” 131.5cm
48½” 131cm
51½”
139cm 54½”
WAIST 61cm 24” 66cm
26” 71cm
28” 76cm
30” 81cm
32” 86cm
34” 93.5cm
37” 101cm
39½” 108.5cm
42½” 116cm
45½”
B ODY
MEASUREMENTS
A B C DE F G J
H K
A B C DE F G J
H K
BUST
WAIST
HIP
92.0 cm
36¼
” 97.0 cm
38¼ ” 102.0 cm
40⅛ ” 107.0 cm
42⅛ ” 112.0 cm
44⅛ ” 117.0 cm
46 ” 124.0 cm
48¾ ” 131.0 cm
51½ ” 138.0 cm
54¼ ”
82.0 cm
32¼
” 87.0 cm
34¼ ” 92.0 cm
36¼ ” 97.0 cm
38⅛ ” 102.0 cm
40⅛ ” 107.0 cm
42⅛ ” 114.0 cm
44⅞ ”
172.0 cm 67⅝
” 177.0 cm
69⅝ ” 182.0 cm
71⅝ ” 187.0 cm
73⅝ ” 192.0 cm
75⅝ ” 197.0 cm
77⅝ ” 204.0 cm
80⅜ ” 211.0 cm
83⅛ ” 218.0 cm
85⅞ ” 145.0 cm
57

225.0 cm 88⅝

FINISHED LENGTH(centre back neck to hem) 106.5 cm 42
” 107.5 cm
42⅜ ” 108.5 cm
42¾ ” 109.5 cm
43⅛ ” 110.5 cm
43½ ” 111.5 cm
43⅞ ” 112.5 cm
44¼ ” 113.5 cm
44⅝ ” 114.5 cm
45 ” 115.5 cm
45⅜ ”
FINISHED GARMENT
MEASUREMENTS
121.0 cm47⅝
” 128.0 cm
50⅜ ” 135.0 cm
53⅛ ”
2.3 m2.5 yds 2.3 m2.5 yds 2.3 m2.5 yds 2.3 m2.5 yds 2.4 m2.6 yds 2.4 m2.6 yds 2.4 m2.6 yds 2.4 m2.6 yds 2.5 m2.7 yds
2.5 m2.7 yds 115cm
45”
150cm
60” 2.5 m 2.7 yds 2.6 m2.8 yds 2.7 m3.0 yds 2.8 m3.1 yds 2.8 m3.1 yds 2.9 m3.2 yds -- --
2.5 m2.7 yds
--
FABRIC
REQUIREMENTS *
A
B C DE F G J
H K
*Please note : You may require more fabric if you are using a fabric wit
h a directional print or if you choose to
lengthen the pattern.

6
printing the pattern
PAPER SIZE
This pattern can be printed on both A4 or
US letter-sized paper. This pattern can be
printed on both A4 or US letter-sized paper.
There is also a full sized version included so
that, if you’d prefer, you can get it printed in
full sheets (3 x A0) at your local copy shop.
SCALING
Open the pattern in Adobe Reader. Before
printing the file, RXZLOOQHHGWRFKHFNWKH
scaling settings on your printer. The pattern
needs to be printed at its true scale. To do
this, go into your print settings and select
‘actual size’ or set page scaling to ‘none’ or
‘turn off page scaling.’
Print only Page 1 of the pattern, and check
that the large test square measures 5cm
x 5cm, or the smaller one measures 1in x
1in. It really needs to be precise, so if it is
not quite right, you will need to go back and
check your printer settings again.
PRINT
When you have the scaling right, print the
remainder of the pattern. Depending on
which size you need, you may not need to
print all the pages. There is a printing plan on
p. 7 so that you can check what pages you
will need to print for your size.
ASSEMBLE
Cut around the border of each page - one
long side and one short side (keep your
choice of sides consistent between pages).
Align the circles so that 1A matches up to
1A, 2A with 2A etc, and tape or glue in place.
Use the printing plan on p. 7 as a reference,
if required.
You will notice that the print-at-home version
of the pattern is broken into smaller portions,
so that it is easier for you to manage if you
have limited space for cutting.
Please note: When printing from Adobe
Reader, make sure the print orientation
is set to “Auto portrait / landscape” - this
will ensure the border of each page will
be printed.
LAYERS
This pattern has embedded layers. This
means that you can select only the size/s you
would like to print.
Layers make it much less confusing to cut
out the pattern, and also saves on ink (and
paper in some cases).
The ‘PATTERN INFO’ layer needs to be on
for all sizes.
Open the pattern in Adobe
Reader and click on the ‘layers’
option on the left hand side.
There will be an eye next to
each layer in the pattern. Turn
off (bFOLFNLQJ DOOWKHODers RX
do not need. Please note, at the
time of publishing, layers are not
available on Preview (Mac). You
will need to install Adobe Reader
to access this feature.

printing plan
7
PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT SIZES G- K PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT
ALL SIZES PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F PLEAT SIZES A- F
SHARE YOUR MAKES
#peppermintsewandtellTag us
@inthefolds
@peppermintmagazine
PLEATED SUMMER DRESSBACK YOKECU T 1 PAIR
Grainline
PLEATED SUMMER DRESSBACK BODICECU T 1 ON FOLD
Grainline
Centre back (place on fold)
PLEATED SUMMER DRESSBACK SKIRTCU T 1 ON FOLD
Grainline
Centre back (place on fold)
PLEATED SUMMER DRESSFRONT SKIRTCU T 1 ON FOLD
Grainline
Centre front (place on fold) Gr
ainline
Grainline
Centre front (place on fold)
PLEATED SUMMER DRESSFRONT BODICECU
T 1 ON FOLD
Cut in
PLEATED SUMMER DRESSBUTTON PLACKETCUT 1 PAIR
Grainline Grainline
Gr
ainline PLEATED SUMMER DRESSPOCKET BAGALL SIZES
CU T 2 PAIRS PLEATED SUMMER DRESSARMHOLE BINDINGCUT 1 PAIR
PLEATED SUMMER DRESSFRONT NECK BINDINGtCUT 1 PAIR
1
2 3
4 5
6 7
8
9 A
BCD EF G HJ K
TEST SQUARE1 inch x 1 inch
5cm x 5cm PLEATED SUMMER DRESSSEWING PATTERNFEEL FREE TO HACK THIS PATTERN,
ADD TO THIS PATTERN, LOVE THIS PATTERN
AND TO MAKE IT OVER & OVER
BUT PLEASE REMEMBER THAT IT’S FOR PERSONAL USE ONLYHAPPY SEWING!
Emil y HundtC
SHARE YOUR MAKES
#peppermintsewandtell
PATTERN SYMBOL KEYnotch
double notch (indicates the back of the pattern piece)cutting linestitch linegrainline
place pattern on foldlengthen / shorten line
drill hole
Our free Sewing School pattern is proudl y supported
by Oekaki Renaissance from Toyota Home Sewing - a
revolutionary new sewing and free-motion embroidery
machine designed to help you make make beautiful
things. ‘Draw’ your ideas directl y onto fabric and
create the designs of your dreams for quilting, textile
arts, dressmaking, home furnitshings and more.
SIZE ASIZE BSIZE CSIZE DSIZE ESIZE FSIZE GSIZE HSIZE JSIZE K
PATTERN SIZE KEY
Tag us
@inthefolds
@peppermintmagazine
direction to fold pleat
1A1A 1B1B 1C1C 1D1D AAAA
3D3D 3A3A
5A5A
3B3B 3C3C 2A2A
4A4A 4B4B 4C4C 4D4D
2B2B 2C2C 2D2D
5B5B
5C5C
7A7A 7B7B
9A9A 9B9B
11B11B
8A8A
10B10B 10A10A 10C10C 10D10D
8B8B 8C8C 8D8D
4E4E
6A6A 6B6B 6C6C 6D6D 6E6E 6F6F 6G6G
2E2E
10E10E 10F10F 10G10G
8E8E 8F8F 8G8G
5D5D 5E5E 5F5F
7D7D 7E7E 7F7F
9D9D 9E9E 9F9F
11D11D 11E11E 11F11F
AAAA
14 1516 17
18 19
20 2122
23
24 25
26
27 28 29
30
31
12 34
56
7
8 9 11
13 10
12
32 33
34 3536 37
38 39
40
Note:
This pattern has layers,
which means you can
just print the size/s you
need. Be sure to keep the
‘PATTERN INFO’ layer on,
as this layer includes all
cutting information etc. For
more information look to
p. 6.
SIZE PAGES REQUIRED
A - C
D
E - K
p. 1-9 / 11-15 / 17-22 / 24-29 / 31-36 / 38-40
ALL PAGES
p. 1-15 / 17-22 / 24-29 / 31-36 / 38-40

PATTERN MARKINGS
cutting your fabric
Take your pre-washed fabric and fold it in
half lengthways, with right sides together,
on a cutting table or other flat surface. Bring
the selvedges (woven edges of the fabric)
together and smooth out any wrinkles. By
folding the fabric in half, you will be able to
cut two pieces at the same time.
Take your pattern pieces and lay them on
your fabric, with the grainline of each pattern
piece running exactly parallel to the selvedge
(use a tape measure to measure from each
end of the grainline, ensuring your pattern
piece is on grain). Use the cutting plans on p.
9 as a guide.
If a pattern piece asks for ‘CUT 1 ON FOLD’ -
align the fold line on the pattern piece with
the fold of the fabric, so that you will be left
with a full pattern piece once cut.
Use weights or pins to hold the pieces in
place. Carefully cut out each piece. Cut along
the black line. The grey line indicates the
stitch line, which will come in handy if you
need to make adjustments to the pattern.
Be sure to transfer all pattern markings onto
your fabric.
TIP
To mark a notch, snip into the fabric 5-6mm
(¼in). Mark drill holes with tailors chalk
on the wrong side of the fabric or a single
stitch in a contrasting thread (by hand).
If you are using silk or a similar substrate,
consider cutting your fabric sandwiched
between two laHUVRI4QHSDSHU SLQQLQJ
and cutting through all three layers). This
will help keep the fabric on grain, and
ensure the fabric doesn’t move while you
are cutting. Use silk pins, and a nice sharp
fine needle on RXUVHZLQJPDFKLQH

Wash and dry your fabric. Use the method
you intend to use when washing your
garment so your dress doesn’t shrink after
its first wash! Give RXUIDEULFDJRRGSUHVV
before cutting.
PREPARE YOUR FABRIC
8

Pieces to cut :
1 - Front Bodice - cut 1 on fold
2 - Lower Back Bodice - cut 1 on fold
3 - Yoke - cut 1 pair
4 - Neck binding - cut 1
5 - Placket - cut 1
6 - Armhole Binding - cut 1 pair
7 - Front Skirt - cut 1 on fold
8 - Back Skirt - cut 1 on fold
9 - Pocket Bag - cut 2 pairs
9
fabric requirements +
suggested cutting plans
Although cutting on the fold is the fastest way
to cut RXUIDEULFLIou cut flat (fabric is not
folded) and cut each piece independently, you
will use less fabric.
If you use this method, when cutting a pair,
be sure to cut one piece with the pattern face
up, and then the other with the pattern face
down.
TIP
FOLD
SELVEDGES
1
2
3
8
5cut 1
cut 1
6
4
7
9
9
115cm / 45in fabric*
FOLD
SELVEDGES
1
2
3
8
cut 1
cut 15
6
4
7
9
9
150cm / 60in fabric
*115cm / 45in wide fabric is
only suitable for sizes A-G, due
to the width of the skirt pieces.
For sizes H-K, you will need to
use 150cm / 60in wide fabric.

Step 1:
Take the FRONT BODICE [1] and staystitch
the armholes and neckline, 6mm (¼in) from
the edge.
10
1
Step 3:
Flip the FRONT BODICE [1] so that the wrong
side is facing up. Pin the centre of the NECK
BINDING [4] to the centre front of the FRONT
BODICE [1] on the neckline, with right side
down.
sewing time!
Fabric -
Right side Fabric -
Wrong side
Illustration key:
4
Step 2:
Take the NECK BINDING [4] piece and
prepare it by folding in the seam allowance
on each long edge by 1cm (⅜in) , pressing in
place.
Unfold the binding. These creases will come
in handy when attaching the binding to the
neckline.
1
4
BIND NECKLINE
All seam allowances are 1.2cm ( ½in), unless otherwise stated.

11
Step 4:
Pin NECK BINDING [4] in place around the
front neckline. Stitch with a 1cm ( ⅜in) seam
allowance. 1
1
Step 5:
Trim, clip and grade the seam allowance to
minimise bulk around the neckline.
1
Step 6:
Open the seam and give it a good press -
pressing the seam allowance towards the
binding. Flip the NECK BINDING [4] to the
right side of the FRONT BODICE [1] and
tuck the raw edge of the binding inside the
binding (by folding along the crease created
earlier). Press and pin in place, before
stitching close to the folded edge of the
binding.

12
Step 7:
Take the PLACKET [5] piece and with right
side down, fold in each outside edge by 1cm
(⅜in) and press (use the notches to guide
you).
5
ATTACH PLACKET
Step 8:
On the PLACKET [5] piece, with tailors chalk
or similar, mark a straight line between the
drill hole and the aligning notch. This will be
the cut line. Then mark a box around the cut
line - 1cm (⅜in) from the line, including at
the tip.
Mark a 1cm (⅜in ) guideline across the top of
the box.
BOX
CUT LINE
GUIDELINE
Step 9:
Take your FRONT BODICE [1] and fold the
neckline in half. Use a pin to mark the centre
front.
Take the PLACKET [5] piece and place it
right side down on the wrong side of the
FRONT BODICE [1]. Line up the 1cm ( ⅜in)
guideline on the top of the PLACKET [5] with
the neckline of the bodice. Align the cut line
marked on the placket with the pin on the
bodice and the drill hole underneath.
Pin PLACKET [5] in place along the lines of the
“box” marked.
5
1

13
Step 10:
Stitch a box around the cut line (following
your guide line marked) - walking in the
stitches at each corner, if required.
Step 11:
Carefully cut along the cut line, through the
PLACKET [5] and the FRONT BODICE [1].
Then cut in to each corner of the rectangle,
getting nice and close to the stitch line, but
not cutting through it.
Step 12:
Flip the PLACKET [5] to the right side of the
FRONT BODICE [1] and give it a good press
along the seams and corners. 51
FRONT BO DICE
FR ONT BO DICE

14
Step 13:
We will start b4QLVKLQJWKHWRSHGJHRIWKH
PLACKET [5].
Focussing on the underside of the PLACKET
[5], press the folded edge towards the
seam of the opening, using the notches to
guide you, so that the piece has right sides
together. PLACKET UNDERSIDE
Step 14:
Flip the underside of the PLACKET [5] so that
you can access the back side of it and, with
tailors chalk, mark a straight line along the
top of the PLACKET [5], 1cm (⅜in) down
from the top edge. Pin in place.
Stitch along the line, getting as close as
possible to the edge of the binding. Trim back
the edge to minimise bulk.
Step 15:
Turn the PLACKET [5] right side out, using
a corner turner to turn the point of the
PLACKET [5]. Press along the fold line (now in
the opposite direction) and press PLACKET so
that the fold just covers (by about 1mm ) the
stitch line underneath.
Pin in place from the top, down to the point
where the opening ends ( 2cm / ¾in up from
the bottom of the placket).
Stitch down from the top to the last pin, close
to the folded edge.

15
Step 16:
Now it’s time to assemble the other side of
the PLACKET [5]. Using the notches closest
to the left side, make a crease in the placket.
Make sure that the long edge of the PLACKET
[5] is still folded under.
PLACKET UNDERSIDE
PLACKET TOP SIDE
Step 17:
Again we’ll start b4QLVKLQJWKHWRSRIWKH
PLACKET [5]. This side is slightlGLHUHQWWR
the first, as it is made up of two pieces, so
that the buttons will be covered by a shield.
Flip the FRONT BODICE [1] so that you can
access the wrong side. Fold the PLACKET [5]
into two sections, using the notches to guide
you. Mark a line across the top ( 1cm / ⅜in
from the top) and pin in place.
Step 18:
Stitch along the line.
Trim back the seam allowance to minimise
bulk.
1
PLACKET TOP SIDE
PLACKET UNDERSIDE

16
Step 19:
Turn the PLACKET [5] right side out - using a
corner turner to help you to get a nice point
on each of the corners. Fold the raw edge
inside the PLACKET and press flat.
PLACKET TOP SIDE
Step 20:
Carefully fold and the PLACKET [5] so that
each section of the placket is neatly stacked
on top of the section underneath (the two
sections of the PLACKET TOP SIDE should be
sitting on top of the PLACKET UNDERSIDE).
Give it a good press.
Step 21:
To finish the bottom edge of the PLACKET
(top side), with the raw edge still folded back,
reverse the direction of the fold, so that the
right sides come together and you can pin
the bottom of the placket together.
Stitch with a 1cm ( ⅜in) seam allowance -
drawing in the stitch line with tailors chalk
if you feel the need. Trim back the seam
allowance and turn corner with a corner
turner.

17
Step 22:
Give the PLACKET [5] a good press and then
pin in place. You will want to be pinning
through both sections of the top placket and
ensuring the fold is covering the stitch line
underneath.
Mark a horizontal line across the PLACKET
[5] 5cm (2in) up from the bottom of the
PLACKET [5].
Step 23:
Carefully stitch the PLACKET [5] in place,
through all the layers.
Step 24:
With the FRONT BODICE [1] right side up, fold
each dart and press. Pin, then stitch each
dart, 1.5cm (⅝in) beyond the drill hole. Press
the bulk of the dart down towards the waist.
Tip: If RX4QGLWHDVLHUPDUNWKHVWLWFKOLQH
from the notches to the point of the dart
(1.5cm / ⅝in beRQGWKHGULOOKROH EHIRUH
stitching.
1.5 cm
1
SEW DARTS

18
Step 25:
Take the LOWER BACK BODICE [2] and pin to
one of the YOKE [3] pieces, with right sides
together. Stitch and press seam allowance up
towards the YOKE [3].
2
3
Step 26:
With right sides together, pin the FRONT
BODICE [1] and back bodice together at the
shoulder seams, starting at the end closest
to the armhole. You will notice that the
back shoulder seam is longer than the front
shoulder seam (this is because the back
neckline still needs to be finished).
Staystich seams in place - stitching 6mm
(¼in) from the edge.
Step 27:
With the FRONT BODICE [1] still facing up,
pin the second YOKE [3] to the shoulder and
neck seam, with right side down, sandwiching
the front of the bodice between the two
YOKE [3] pieces.
Stitch shoulder with a 1.2cm (½in) seam
allowance before pivoting on the intersection
point (where the shoulder seam meets the
neck seam) and reducing to a 1cm (⅜in)
seam allowance around the back neck.
1
3
1
3
INTERSECTION
POINT
ASSEMBLE BACK

19
Step 28:
Clip the back neck seam allowance and trim
down the shoulder corners to minimise bulk.
FRONT BO DICE
3
Step 29:
Turn YOKE [3] right side out and understitch
the seam allowance around the back neckline
to the inside yoke.
Give the neckline a good press.
1 3
2
Step 30:
Fold and press the raw edge on the bottom
of the inside yoke up by 1.2cm (½in) and pin
through the ditch (the seam line between the
yoke and the lower back bodice) on the right
side. Stitch in the ditch to secure the inside
yoke.

20
Step 31:
With right sides together, pin the front and
back pieces together at the side seams. Stitch
and finish seam with RXUFKRVHQPHWKRG.
1
Step 32:
Take the ARMHOLE BINDING [6] pieces and
fold and press in each long side by 1cm
(⅜in) .
Step 33:
Unfolding the creases, bring the short sides
of the ARMHOLE BINDING [6] together with
right sides together. Stitch with a 1.2cm
(½in) seam allowance. Press seam allowance
open and trim back by about 6mm (¼in) .
6
BIND ARMHOLES
Step 34:
Turn the bodice to the wrong side and pin
the ARMHOLE BINDING [6] to the armhole,
aligning the seam on the binding with the
side seam of the bodice.
Stitch in place with a 1cm (⅜in) seam
allowance (the crease created earlier can be
used as a stitch guide).

21
Step 35:
Trim and clip the seam allowance around
the armhole before flipping the ARMHOLE
BINDING [6] to the right side. Press the
seam flat (with the seam allowance pressed
towards the binding).
FRONT BO DICE
Step 36:
Turn the bodice to the right side and press
the ARMHOLE BINDING [6] around the
armhole. Turn the raw edge under (using
the crease made earlier) and press and pin.
Stitch the binding in place by stitching close
to the folded edge.
Give the armhole a good press from the right
side.
Put the bodice aside for the moment.
Step 37:
Take your FRONT SKIRT [7] piece and starting
at the centre front, fold the two outer
notches together and press (you can do this
simply by folding the piece in half). Take a
ruler and tailor’s chalk and mark a line from
the outer notches down to the drill hole.
Stitch pleat by stitching along the line, from
notch to drill hole. Reduce stitch length as
you get towards the drill hole, to prevent
pleat from unravelling. Repeat process for
each of the nine pleats.
7
SEW PLEATS

22
Step 38:
From the wrong side, press each pleat flat,
lining up the centre of the pleat (marked by
a notch) with the stitched line. Pin in place
before stay stitching the pleats in place 6mm
(¼in) from the raw edge. Repeat process to
assemble the BACK SKIRT [8].
7
Step 39:
Take both pairs of POCKET BAGS [9] and
finish the curved edge with RXUFKRVHQ
method. 99
SEW POCKETS
Step 40:
Take the FRONT SKIRT [7] and pin POCKET
BAGS [9] to side seam, using the notches to
guide you.
Stitch POCKET BAG [9] in place with a 1cm
(⅜in) seam allowance. Finish side seam with
your chosen method.
9 9
7

979
Step 41:
Flip POCKET BAGS [9] to right side and
understitch the seam allowance, by using
RXU4QJHUVWRSUHVVWKHVHDPWRZDUGVWKH
POCKET BAG [9] .
Attach the other set of pocket bags to the
BACK SKIRT [8] using the same method as
described in the previous steps.
9
79
Step 42:
With the POCKET BAGS [9] flat, pin the
FRONT SKIRT [7] to the BACK SKIRT [8] with
right sides together, around each pocket bag
and down the side seam. Stitch seam.
FR
ONT SKIR T
POCKET B AG
Step 43:
To reinforce the pockets and to help them
stay on the inside of the skirt, take a ruler and
chalk and extend the side seam up in to the
POCKET BAG [9] from the side seam of the
skirt. Extend the line up to the notch, 1.2cm
(½in) from the side seam. Repeat from the
top of the pocket, marking the line between
the top of the pocket and the first notch.
Use the POCKET BAG [9] pattern piece as
a guide if you have lost your notches after
overlocking.
Stitch each line, firmlEDFNVWLWFKLQJDWWKH
end of each stitch line.
23

97
8
Step 44:
Press side seam allowance and POCKET
BAGS [9] towards the FRONT SKIRT [7] and
pin the top of each POCKET BAG [9] to waist
line. Staystitch with a 6mm (¼in ) seam
allowance.
9
79
Step 45:
With right sides together, pin the bodice to
the skirt, using the notches and seam lines
as a guide. Stitch seam and finish with RXU
chosen method.
Step 46:
Press waist seam up towards bodice.
24

Give RXUGUHVVDJRRGSUHVVDQGou are readWRZHDULW!
We’d love to see what you made!
Find us on Instagram @peppermintmagazine and @inthefolds
and tag your photo with #peppermintsewingschool
SEW HEM
Step 47:
Finish the hem with your chosen method.
FRONT BO DICE
Step 48:
Turn up hem by 5cm (2” ). Press and pin.
FR ONT BO DICE
Step 49:
Stitch hem in place by hand or machine.
Take the BUTTON PLACKET piece and use it
to mark the button and buttonhole position
on your dress placket.
Make buttonholes and then stitch
buttonholes in place.
25

26
glossary
BASTE - Sew temporary stitches to hold pieces in place before sewing permanently
. Bast -
ing can be done by hand or machine (on a long stitch length). Consider
using a contrast
thread when basting to make stitches easier to remove later.
CLIP - Snip into the seam allowance (perpendicular to the raw edge) getting c
lose to the
stitch line, to help open up curved seams or corners.
FINISH - Neaten the raw edges of your project using an overlocker, zigzag stitch
or binding.
INTERFACING - A (normall IXVLEOHIDEULFWKDWLVXVHGWRVWLHQRUVWUHQJWKHQIDEULFLQ
certain parts of a garment. It is often used in collars, cuffs and button plackets.
NOTC H - A notch is a small cut in the fabric that helps guide you while you are
sewing.
It can be used to indicate seam allowance, dart arms, the location of de
sign details or
indicate key points on the pattern (like the centre front or centre bac
k). Notches are also
used to indicate balance points (points on your pattern that help you s
ew the right pieces
together, as well as help you when you are sewing long or curved seams)
.
PRESS - Use a hot iron to press seams flat, using steam (if appropriate for RXUIDEULF .
RIGHT SIDE / WRONG SIDE - The right side of the fabric is the side you would like to see
on the outside of the finished garment, while the wrong side is the side that will be hidden
inside the garment.
SEAM ALLOWANCE - The space between the stitching line and the raw edge of the fabric.
All seams in this pattern are 1.2cm (½in), unless otherwise stated.

TRIM - Cut back a seam allowance to make a seam easier to manage or less bulky.

UNDERSTITCH - Stitch the seam allowance to a facing or binding, close to the seam edge
.
This helps the facing (or binding) roll to the inside of the garment,
preventing it from being
seen on the outside of a garment.
DRILL HOLE - Drill holes are small holes marked on a pattern, often used to indicate
a dart
point or other design features, such as the location of patch pockets, b
elt loops or pivot
points (any feature that is located in an area where you are unable to
notch a seam).
GRADE SEAM ALLOWANCES - Minimise bulk by trimming down raw edges in varying
widths. Trim down the seam allowance that will sit closest to the body c
lose to the stitch
line. Trim the next laHUOHDYLQJDVOLJKWO wider seam allowance than the first, and so on
until all layers are trimmed back.
STAY STITCH - "Staystitching" is a line of stitching inside the permanent stitch line
(so it
remains hidden inside the seam allowances) that is used to reinforce cu
rved and bias cut
seams, so that they do not stretch or distort during the sewing process.

Woohoo, you have finished your dress!
We’d love to see what you made!
Find us on Instagram @peppermintmagazine and @inthefolds
and tag your photo with #peppermintsewingschool
C Emily Hu ndt 2017 - made with love in Sydney, Australia for Peppermint Magazine
Pattern is for individual use onl y
You can make the garment for yourself or as a gift. It does not entitle

you to print, copy or distribute the pattern to
others, whether RXSUR4WIURPLWRUQRWQRUWRVHOOJDUPHQWVWKDWou
have made from this sewing pattern.
Thank you for respecting the rights of the designer.
Love the pattern?
Plenty more patterns can be found at
www.peppermintmag.com/other/sewing-school/
+
www.inthefolds.com
X