A4-Instructions_Pattern_PeppermintxPaper-Theory_Pocket-Skirt

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Pocket Skirt
size 6–28 Issue 47
x

Hem: 4cm S/A
Recommended Fabrics: This pattern was designed especially for woven, medium to heavy weight fabrics like linen, double gauze,
cotton twill or silk noil. It would also make up well in some lighter fabrics that have a draped quality like viscose twill, crepe de chine
or silk satin.
Notions:
The waist requires 38mm (1.5inch) wide elastic. Please refer to the Fabric Consumption Chart to see how much you need
for your size.
Thread: One regular size spool (100m) is enough to complete the skirt
(if you are planning to finish your seams with an Overlocker/Serger remember it takes an additional 4 spools of thread)

To o l s : The garment can be completed from start to finish with just a regular domestic sewing machine. Finishing the seam allowance
with an Overlocker is not essential but it is recommended if you have one. The constuction notes include overlocking steps. If you do
not have an overlocker you can use the zig zag stitch on your plain sewing machine to finish the edges and prevent fraying. Alterna-
tively it is also possible to french seam all the exposed seams on this skirt for a clean and luxurious finish.
All pattern peices have 1cm seam allowance already included.
EXCEPT for the 4cm seam allowance on the hem edge.
Ability level: This pattern is suitable for a beginner sewist.
Style notes: The Peppermint Pocket skirt is a simple Midi skirt with an elasticated waist that pulls on over the hips to sit high on
your natural waist so there is no need for buttons or a zip, nor too many fitting issues. This makes it a quick and easy sew, and
quick and easy to get on and of your body.
The hem is full and slightly A-line and the length finishes just below your calf (on a person who is around 5’7”).
There are large and deep pockets integrated into the side panels that sit low on your hips and slightly away from the body.
Perfect for carrying all of the things!
Pattern Information
Supplies Needed
Pattern Index
Lower Side
Panel
cut x1 pair
Upper Side
Panel
cut x1 pair
Back Skirt
Panel
cut x1
Front Skirt
Panel
cut x1

• Choose your size based on the measurement chart supplied. The Paper Theory body measurement chart is in UK/Au sizes .
Please also take note of the finished garment measurements when choosing your size as there is generous ease added for an
intentionally relaxed style and wearing comfort.
•The most important measurement to consider when choosing which size to cut is your hip measurement as the waist can be
adjusted with the elastic. There is roughly 30cm of ease added into the hip to create lots of gathering and fullness.
•There are two waist measurements in the “Finished Garment measurement” chart. The Waist Stretched is how wide the skirt
will stretch at capacity when you pull it on, so you need to ensure this measurement is not more than 3 or 4cm smaller than your
hips. The Waist relaxed is how small the waist will gather in once the elastic has been added. You can choose how tight you wish
to have the elastic and it always saves time in the long run to check your elastic fits well before sewing it into your waistband. Use
the measurements supplied in the Fabric Consumption chart as a rough guide for how long to cut your elastic (it includes the
overlap allowance). Fasten your waistband into a circle with a safety pin, overlapping the edges by 1/2 an inch on each side then
try it on - making sure it’s able to stretch over your hips and feels secure around your waist. If it sits firmly on your waist, you’re
good to go. Adjust it to be tighter if needed.
•The Pocket skirt was drafted for someone who is 170cm tall (5’7“) and is intended to finish mid shin. The pockets are placed on
the side of the hips. If you are more than a couple inches shorter or taller than this height the pockets might feel misplaced and
too low or too high. There are lines marked “lengthen or shorten pocket height here” where you can add or reduce length. The
simplest way to check if you like the pocket height is to place the pattern piece of the Upper Side Panel on your body and see
what you think (the pockets will be placed between the notches)
You can also shorten the skirt or add length at the hem before cutting your fabric if you want it to finish shorter or longer.
Fitting Notes
6 810 1214 16 1820 222426 28
86 90 9499104 109 114120126.5 133139.5 146
34 35.5 3739 4143 454 7. 5 5052.5 555 7. 5
61
65 69 7479 84 8995101.5 108114.5 121
24
Size
Hip
Wa i s t
25.52729 3133 353 7. 5 4042.5 454 7. 5
Body Measurements (centimetres/inches)
6 810 1214 16 1820 222426 28
89 93 97102 107 112117123129.5 136143
35 36.6 38.2 40. 2 4 2 .1 4 4 .14 6 .148.4 5153.5 56.3
117 121125 130 135 140145 1511 5 7. 5 164171
46 4 7. 6 49.2 51.25 3 .1 5 5 .15 7.159.4 6264.6 6 7. 3
148.6 152.5156.5 161.5166.5 171.5176.5 182.5 189195.5 202.5
58.5 6061.6 63.6 65.6 6 7. 569.5 71.974 . 4 7779.7
56
60 6469 74 7984 9096.5 103110
Size
Waist
Hip
Hem Circ Wa i s t
2223.6 25.2 2 7. 22 9 .1 3 1 .13 3 .135.4 3840.6 43.3
Finished Garment Measurements (centimetres/inches)
82 82828282.5 8383.5 8484.5 8585.5
32.3 32.332.332.3 32.5 32.732.9 3 3 .133.3 33.5 33.7
CB length 150
59
178 70
209.5 82.5117
46
86
33.9
(Stretched)
(Relaxed)

Each size will have its own unique cutting plan to
maximise eficency that will vary depending on the
diferent width of fabric you have. It may take some time
and rearranging to find the most efective lay for you.
These examples are to scale and can be used as a
starting point.
6 810 1214 16 1820 222426 28
1.66 1.661.66 1.911.932 .09 2 .1 02.22 2.23 2.242.46 2.72
1.41 1.67 1.68 1.69 1.70 1.711.721.73 1. 741.75 1.76 1.7 7
Size
115cm
150cm
Fabric Consumption Chart (metres/yards)
Consumption in metres
1.82 1.821.822 .09 2 .1 12.29 2.302.432.44 2.45 2.69 2.97
1.54 1.83 1.841.85 1.86 1.87 1.881.891.90 1.911.92 1.93
45 inch
60 inch
Consumption in yards
59 63 67172 7782 8793100 106 113119
elastic
2324.5 262830 32 3436.5 3941.5 4446.5
elastic
115cm /45 inch cutting plan based on a size 14
150cm /60 inch cutting plan based on a size 14
• Refer to the Fabric consumption chart to determine how much material you need for your size.
• For environmental reasons, consuming the least amount of resources necessary is an integral part of the way all Paper
Theory patterns and instructions are created - therefore a lot of care has been taken to give you an accurate and
conservative fabric consumption chart.
• Please note: To achieve these numbers, all cutting plans were calculated as a “ flat lay ”. What that means is the fabric is
not on the fold when cutting because cutting on the fold is less economical and less accurate. Cutting on the fold can use
an extra 25-50cm of length depending on the width of your fabric.
• No shrinkage allowance is added to the fabric consumption calculation - Woven fabrics often shrink in length on the first
wash so it is strongly recommend to wash your fabric before cutting out your pattern.
• Note that for stripes or prints that need pattern matching, the fabric requirements may be higher.
Cutting Plan

Printing Overview
There will be an eye symbol next to each
visible layer in the pattern. You can hide
any layer you do not wish to view by
deselecting (clicking of ) the eye for that
layer.
The layer titled ‘PATTERN INFO’ needs
to be on for all sizes. Do not turn “Pattern
Info” of. Open the adobe reader and select the
‘layers’ option on the left hand side menu

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6 Paper TheoryUpper Side PanelCut 1 Pair Self
Paper TheoryLower Side Panel Cut 1 Pair Self
Back PanelCut 1 Self
GRAINLINE. Cut parallel to selvedge
GRAINLINE. Cut parallel to selvedge
GRAINLINE. PLACE ON FOLD.
GRAINLINE. PLACE ON FOLD.
Copyright © 2020 by Paper Theory Patterns.
All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. Garments made from this pattern may not be produced
for sale. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means,
including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods. Thank you!
Paper TheoryCentre Front Panel Cut 1 Self
Paper TheoryPeppermint Pocket Skirt
When printed correctly
this square should
measure 3” by 3”
When printed correctly
this square should
measure 10cm by 10cm.
Please check before cutting •This pattern can be printed on both A4 or US letter
sized paper.
•The front and back skirts have only half the pattern
printed to save you printing out double the amount
of pages. Be careful to lay the centre of these
pieces on the fold when cutting your fabric or leave
enough space to flip and trace them.
•Ensure the scale settings on your printer are at
100% before printing. This is a very important step
to ensure accuracy in sizing.
Do not select the ‘Fit to Page’ option.
It is a good idea to print only page One first. Check
page One is correct and the test square measures
accurately before printing the remaining pages,
also ensure all four borders of the page are visible.
•This pattern has embedded layers which means
that you can select only the size/s you need to
print. You will need to install Adobe Reader to
acces the layer selection feature.
•The Copy shop file consists of 2 A0 pages to print
or 2 US 36" x 48" pages.
•The PDF print at home pattern consists of 28
pages. When joining the pages together start the
grid with 4 columns of pages across and you will
have 7 rows of pages down. There should be a
border around each page with half a small diamond
shape on the border showing where to line up the
adjacent page. Cut of the excess outside of the
borders as needed and tape the pattern together
matching the diamonds and following the
numerical sequence.
Paper Theory
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STEP 1:
Place the bottom edge of the Upper Side Panel on
top of the top edge of the Lower Side Panel, right
sides together and stitch a 1cm seam. You dont
need to zig zag or overlock this seam as it will get
encased in the pocket
STEP 1A:
Edge stitch this seam. Make sure the seam is
pressed upwards towards the Upper Side
Panel and all seam allowance is pushed
under the row of edge stitching (This will help
the seam to fall towards the inside and
become invisible when the pocket is finished).
fold line
edge stitching. STEP 1A
STEP 1
Right side of fabric
Wrong side of fabric
Construction Notes

STEP 2A:
Bring the seam you just stitched up towards the top notch
on the Upper Side Panel. Make sure your edge stitch is on
the inside of the pocket (not visible)
Align the edge of the lower skirt against the edge of the
upper skirt. This will create a fold which is going to
become the bottom of your pocket bag (there is a notch
and line marked where the fold should be that matches
the notch on the lower skirt panel)
STEP 2B:
Pin one side of the pocket in place and do a 5mm basting
stitch to secure in place.
STEP 2C:
Now pin the other edge of the Lower Side Panel to the
Upper Side Panel - note it will not sit flat at the top
because you are creating a slightly draped pocket.
Do a 5mm basting stitch to secure in place.
Repeat these steps with the remaining side pieces to
make the opposite side panel.
STEP 2A STEP 2B
STEP 2C

STEP 3:
Place the completed Side Panel on the
Centre Front Panel right sides together.
Making sure you have matched the
notches, sew a 1cm seam down the
length of the panel from wasit to hem,
back tacking at both ends.
STEP 3A:
Repeat the last step to attach the other
Side Panel to the opposite side of the
Centre Front Panel.
STEP 3
STEP 3A

STEP 4:
Lay the Centre Back Panel on top of the
Side Panel. Make sure notches are
matching, pin in place and stitch a 1cm
seam from waist to hem.
STEP 4A:
Place the remaining unsewn edge of the
Centre Back Panel on the remaining
unsewn edge of the Side Panel, match
notches, pin together and stitch a 1cm
seam from waist to hem. This will close all
the panels together and you will now have
what resembles a skirt.
STEP 4
STEP 4A

STEP 5:
Press and overlock all vertical seams.
Press seam allowances towards the
Centre Back and the Centre Front as
you don’t want to force the bulk of the
pocket bags in the opposite direction.
STEP 6:
Turn the top edge of the waist over
towards the inside (by 5cm) then turn
the raw edge under again by 1cm (so
the waistband will finish 4.cm in total).
Pin in place.
STEP 5
STEP 6
Optional Step*
If you wanted to add a topstitching
feature on your panels, for example a
narrow edge stitch or a foot
stitch/mock flat fell stitch, now is the
best time to do it.

*TIP* A good rule of thumb for getting the length of your elastic
right is to measure your waist and cut your elastic 1” smaller than
that measurement. Once you have overlapped and stitched the
ends together the elastic will finish 2” smaller and stretch to your
waist.
STEP 7: Starting at the Back Panel, close to one of
the side seams, stitch the lower folded edge down
about 2-3mm away from the edge of the fold
creating a waistband casing.
Leave a gap of about 6cm between where your
stitching starts and stops. STEP 7A: Attach a safety pin to one end of the
elastic, secure the other end of the elastic to the
garment with a pin to stop it being pulled through
the casing and work the safety pin through the
waistband until it comes out the other end. Be
careful your elastic doesnt twist inside the casing.
STEP 7 STEP 7A
STEP 7B: To join the ends of the elastic: overlap them so
you have 2.5cm of a double layer and pin the elastic
together. This is a good place to check that the elastic is
cut to the right length for your waist by trying it on before
you stitch it closed. Lengthen or shorten the elastic as
needed. Stitch a square on the overlaped area and criss
cross for strength or make two or three rows of zig zig
stitching. Pull the finished elastic back inside the waist-
band casing. STEP 7C: Close the gap on the waistband that you
left open for the elastic with an edge stitch, being
careful not to catch the elastic under your stitching.
*TIP* if you want to prevent your elastic twisting in
the washing machine, stitch in the ditch through one
or two of the vertical seams in the waistband.
STEP 7B STEP 7C

STEP 8:
Turn up the hem allowance on the bottom edge of
the skirt towards the inside by 4cm, then turn the
raw edge under again by 1cm and stitch in place
(the hem will finish 3cm deep).
THATS IT YOU’RE FINISHED.
Give your skirt a good press and turn it right side
out.
Wear it with love and pride.
Find us on Instagram @paper_theory and @peppermintmagazine and tag
your photo with #peppermintpocketskirt
Love your new skirt? Visit www.peppermintmag.com/sewing-school/
to see the rest of our free patterns!
STEP 8
Copyright 2020 by Paper Theory Patterns.
This pattern is for personal use only. Not to be used for commercial purposes.
Download of this pattern entitles you to print and copy the pattern
as a gift. It does not entitle you to print, copy or distribute the pattern to others,
whether you profit from it or not, nor to sell garments that you have made from
this sewing pattern.
Thank you for respecting the rights of the designer.
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