the-ageing-young-rebel-jazz-crow-amigurumi-en

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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-
NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.Jazz-Crow
This amigurumi pattern was made for your
pleasure by
Anu Koski
the ageing young rebel
http://theageingyoungrebel.com
Note: this pattern does not contain basic
instructions for crocheting and knitting
techniques or making pompoms. I have
collected tips, links and advices in the patterns
section of my home page:
http://theageingyoungrebel.com/patterns

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-
NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.You will need
Crochet hook 4mm (or size to obtain gauge)
Tapestry needle
Polyester fiberfill
(Plastic granulate pellets)
Black plastic safety eyes, 12mm
Black and white perle cottonGauge
The diameter of a 36 sts (starting rnd + 5 rnds) basic
circle is ca. 5 cm (2”). A small variation in the gauge is
ok, but if the fabric of your amigurumi is much too
loose, stuffing it will be difficult (the fabric will pull
apart and the stuffing will show between the stitches).
Stitches used
Single crochet (sc) in a continuous spiral following the
instructions. Do not join rnds.
The eye areas are crocheted as treble crochet (tr).
The toes on the feet are double crochet bobbles.
General instructions
Unless mentioned otherwise, all pieces are fastened
off by cutting the yarn and pulling it through the loop.
Leave a long tail that can be used for sewing the
pieces together.
Yarn
DK weight wool yarn with gauge 20-22sts/10cm(4”),
eg. Sandnes Smart Superwash, three different
shades of grey and light pink ca. 25g (1/2 skein) each,
a small amount of white and black.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-
NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.Starting loop
You can start crocheting the amigurumi with a basic
chain ring, but there is also a special starting loop
created for them. It is called ”magic loop”.
Take the yarn to your left hand, the tail of the yarn
pointing upwards. Turn your hand so that your palm is
facing yourself and wrap the yarn three times around
your left index finger (the tail of the yarn is the
”outermost” behind your finger).
Push the hook from the right side through the first two
wraps, take the last wrap (coming from the skein) on
the hook and pull it through the other two wraps. Take
the yarn on the hook again and crochet 1 sc on the
loop forming of two strands of yarn (this does not
count as a stitch). Remove the loop from your finger
and work the needful amount of stitches (usually 6
sc).
Pull the tail of the yarn so you will notice that one of
the strands starts to tighten. Take the tightening
strand and pull it to tighten the other strand. Now you
can easily tighten the loop by pulling the tail of the
yarn.
Confused? There are several videos in YouTube
explaining the ”Magic loop”, here's a good one:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfKKoU4HpCsBasic circle
The basic piece of an amigurumi is a cylinder shape
which is sculpted by increasing and decreasing
stitches. The cylinder is based on a basic circle.
The basic circle is divisible by 6, in other words there
are always 6 increases (or decreases) on one round.
The increases form a straight line, so it's easy to
check their positions from the previous round. The
basic circle is worked in a continuous spiral, the
rounds are not joined. When coming to the end of the
round, just continue into the first stitch of the previous
round.
Make a magic loop, sc 6. Pull loop closed.
rnd 1: 2 sc in each sc around = 12 sts
rnd 2: 1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 18 sts
rnd 3: 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 24 sts
rnd 4: 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 30 sts
rnd 5: 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 36 sts
rnd 6: 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 42 sts
rnd 7: 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 48 sts
Mark the last increase with a stitch marker, a length of
yarn or a safety pin, it will ease counting the rows.
Due to the helical structure, the last stitches of the
rounds without increases are not in a strict vertical
line but a bit tilted to the right.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-
NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.Body
Work with grey shade 1. Start at bottom.
rnds 1-7: make a basic circle with 48 sts.
rnds 8-15: sc (8 rnds altogether)
rnd 16: 6 sc, sc2tog, repeat around = 42 sts.
rnds 17-18: sc
rnd 19: 5 sc, sc2tog, repeat around = 36 sts.
rnds 20-21: sc
rnd 22: 4 sc, sc2tog, repeat around = 30 sts.
rnds 23-24: sc
rnd 25: 3 sc, sc2tog, repeat around = 24 sts
rnds 26-27: sc
rnd 28: 2 sc, sc2tog, repeat around = 18 sts
rnds 29-30: sc
Tip: the increases on the bottom and the
decreases on the upper body form a vertical line
slightly tilted to right. You can check the right
positions for the decreases based on the last
round of the increases.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-
NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.Head
Work with grey shade 2, starting at the top of the
head.
rnds 1-5: make a basic circle with 36 sts
rnds 6- 14: sc (9 rounds altogether)
Eye patches (make 2)
Work with white yarn. Make a magic loop, ch 4 (= 1 st

dc), 17 tr in loop, join round with sl st (= 18 sts). Leave
the magic loop a little loose so you can poke the eye
shaft through it.
Pork pie hat
Work with black yarn. Note: work in joined rounds,
close all rounds with a slip stitch. Make one chain in
the beginning of each round and count it as a stitch.
Check the positions of the increases from the
previous round.
rnds 1-4: make a basic circle with 30 sts
rnd 5: sc in back loop only
rnds 6-7: sc
rnd 8: 4 sc in front loop only, 2 sc to next sc in front
loop only, repeat around = 36 sts
rnd 9: 5 sc, 2 sc to next sc, repeat around = 42 sts
rnd 10: sc
Fasten off, weave in end. Beak
Work with light pink yarn, starting at the tip of the
beak.
rnd 1: make a basic circle with 12 sts
rnds 2-3: sc
rnd 4: 1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 18 sts
rnds 5-7: sc
rnd 8: 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 24 sts
rnds 9-11: sc
rnd 12: 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 30
sts
rnds 13-15: sc
rnd 16: 1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 36
sts
rnds 17-18: sc

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-
NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.Wings (make 2)
Work with grey shade 3.
Upper piece, starting at the top of the wing:
rnd 1: make a basic circle with 12 sts
rnd 2: 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 16 sts
rnd 3: 7 sc, 2 sc in 8 th
sc, 7 sc, 2 sc in 16 th
sc = 18 sts
rnd 4: 8 sc, 2 sc in 9 th
sc, 8 sc, 2 sc in 18 th
sc = 20 sts
rnd 5: 9 sc, 2 sc in 10 th
sc, 9 sc, 2 sc in 20th = 22 sts
rnd 6: sc
Crochet 2 sc, fasten off.
Lower piece, starting at the tip of the wing:
rnd 1: make a basic circle with 12 sts
rnd 2: sc
rnd 3: 5 sc, 2 sc 6 th
sc, 5 sc, 2 sc in 12 th
sc = 14 sts
rnd 4: sc
rnd 5: 6 sc, 2 sc in 7 th
sc, 6 sc, 2 sc in 14 th
sc = 16 sc
rnd 6: sc
rnd 7: 7 sc, 2 sc in 8 th
sc, 7 sc, 2 sc in 16 th
sc = 18 sc
rnd 8: sc
rnd 9: 8 sc, 2 sc in 9 th
sc, 8 sc, 2 sc in 18 th
sc = 20 sc
rnd 10: sc
rnd 11: 9 sc, 2 sc in 10 th
sc, 9 sc, 2 sc in 20 th
sc = 22
sc
rnd 12: sc
Crochet 2 sc, fasten off.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-
NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.Feet (make 2)
Differing from the other pieces, the decrease rounds
are asymmetrical to give this piece the shape of a
foot. Work with light pink yarn.
rnd 1-3: make a basic circle with 24 sts.
rnd 4: sc
rnd 5: 8 sc, work 1 st
toe (make a bobble in the next st:
*YO, insert hook in the next st, YO and draw up a
loop, YO and draw through 2 loops on the hook*,
repeat 5 times, YO and draw through all 6 loops on
hook. The bobble will consist of 5 dc's.), 2 sc, 2 nd
toe,
2 sc, 3 rd
toe, 9 sc
rnd 6: sc
rnd 7: 6 sc, sc2tog 6 times, 6 sc = 18 sts
rnd 8: 5 cs, sc2tog 4 times, 5 sc = 14 sts
rnd 9: 5 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc, sc2tog (the decreases are
positioned in line with the first and last decrease of
the previous row), 4 sc = 12 sts
rnd 10.-12: sc

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-
NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.Tail
Work with grey shade 3 (same as wings). The tail
consists of two feathers on top of the other. The
upper one has otherwise the same shape as the
lower but is a bit shorter.
Lower feather:
rnd 1: make a basic circle with 12 sts
rnd 2: 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 16 sts
rnds 3-4: sc
rnd 5: 14 sc, sc2tog (2 last sc's) = 15 sts
rnd 6: sc
rnd 7: 13 sc, sc2tog = 14 sts
rnd 8: sc
rnd 9: 12 sc, sc2tog = 13 sts
rnd 10: sc
Upper feather:
rnd 1: make a basic circle with 12 sts
rnd 2: 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 16 sts
rnd 3: sc
rnd 4: 14 sts , sc2tog (2 last sc's) = 15 sts
rnd 5: 13 sts , sc2tog = 14 sts
rnd 6: 12 sts , sc2tog = 13 sts
rnd 7: sc

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-
NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.Assembly
Finish the eye patches first: poke the eye shafts
through the center of the eye patches and tighten the
magic loop, weave in end. Weave in also the yarn tail.
Position the head piece so that the yarn tail is in the
center at the back.
Whipstitch the head and the beak together with the
yarn tail of the head, leave a ca. 3cm (1”) opening for
attaching the eyes and stuffing.
Position the eyes on the front of the head
symmetrically, ca. 3 rnds from the edge of the head.
The left eye is positioned to 11 th
hole counted from the
middle back and the right eye in the 10 th
hole. There
will be a ca. 7 holes space between the eye patches
on the front. Poke the eye shafts through to the inside
of the head and fasten with the washers.
Stuff the head and the beak tightly and close the
opening.
Backstitch the eye patches on place with white
perle cotton (pull the yarn tails of the patches inside
the head with a needle so they don't disturb the
sewing).
Stuff the body tightly and attach the head to it. Use
the photos as a guide.
(Put 3-4 tablespoons of granulate pellets inside the
body before the polyfill to add some weight to the
bird's bottom.)

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-
NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.Embroider the mouth and the nostrils with 2
strands of black perle cotton. The nostrils are
positioned 7 rnds from the edge of the beak and 2 sts
from each other.
Whipstitch the upper piece of the wing to the
lower so that the increasing sts on both pieces form a
line on the side of the wing. Use the tail of yarn of the
upper part so it's easier to match the pieces together.
Leave an opening that is 2 sts narrower than the wing
on both ends. Stuff the wing lightly and close the
opening using the tail of yarn of the lower piece.
Slipstitch the wing to place with black perle
cotton, 5 rnds from the top of the body and the
stuffing opening facing the body. The wing will fit
naturally on place when the stitching runs just ”below”
the increasing sts of the upper piece and is ca. 10
rnds in length - use the photos as a guide. Sew the
other wing accordingly.
Stuff the feet and slipstitch them to place just
above the last increasing round of the bottom,
reaching to 4 rnds of the body.
Attach the tail to the back of the body on the same
rnd as the feet, reaching to 3 rnds of the body.
Slipstitch the hat to place with black perle cotton.
X